In 1995 Bernadette Chirac gave Lady Diana a bag Dior had just created. The princess was rarely seen without it; a year later the house renamed it the Lady Dior. Thirty years on, it is one of the few bags whose resale value holds without depending on a trend.
The cannage, its signature
The quilted motif takes its name from the Napoleon III chairs Christian Dior lined up in his avenue Montaigne salon for his shows. On a genuine piece each diamond is even and domed, with identical padding from one square to the next.
The first thing to check: the diamonds must stay aligned along the edges of the bag. On a copy the pattern drifts at the corners or flattens along the sides.
The charms
Four pendants hanging from the handle spell D.I.O.R. They should feel heavy, with crisp recessed engraving, and the ring holding them should close with no play.
On recent models each letter is stamped on both faces. On 1990s pieces the finishing varies more — that is normal, and one more reason never to authenticate on a single criterion.
The sizes
- Micro — about 12 cm, an evening piece.
- Mini — about 17 cm, the most sought-after today.
- Small — about 20 cm, the balance between use and line.
- Medium — about 24 cm, the historic format, Lady Diana's.
- Large — about 32 cm, rarer, in high demand in plain leather.
What drives the value
Three factors, in order. First the state of the cannage: crushed or distorted quilting cannot be recovered. Then the corners, which rub first and tell the bag's real history. Finally the material: lambskin is softer but marks, calfskin is more resilient, and patent or exotic editions trade on their own terms.
Box and authenticity card add to the value but do not make it: they are sold separately and prove nothing on their own.
How we look at it
We examine every Lady Dior on the evenness of the cannage, the weight of the charms, the interior finishing and whether the wear is coherent. Our pieces can be seen at the boutique, 104 rue de Turenne, or over video if you are far away.