At Hermès the choice of leather matters as much as the model. Two Birkins of the same size and colour, one in Togo and one in Box, are two different objects — in appearance, in structure, in the way they age, and often in value.
Togo
The most common on large models, and often the most sensible. It is a calfskin with a pronounced, slightly irregular grain, supple but with structure. It resists scratches well, does not mark easily with water, and develops a patina without losing its shape.
Recognisable by its raised, visible grain — more pronounced than Clémence — and by its hold: a Togo bag keeps its shape without slouching.
Clémence (Taurillon Clémence)
A calfskin with a wider, flatter grain than Togo, and noticeably more supple. Clémence bags slouch slightly over time — which some people seek for the relaxed look, and others avoid.
Heavier than Togo at equal size. On a large format, you feel the difference.
Epsom
An embossed calfskin: the grain is printed, therefore perfectly regular — which makes it the easiest to tell apart. Rigid, light, highly resistant to scratches and water, it holds its shape impeccably and does not deform.
It is the leather of choice for structured pieces and small leather goods. That same regularity makes it feel less "alive" than Togo to some collectors.
Swift
Formerly Gulliver. A very smooth leather, almost without grain, soft to the touch, which absorbs colour beautifully — it is on Swift that Hermès's brightest tones are deepest.
The trade-off: it marks easily. Scratches and water spots show. A Swift in good condition is therefore a bag that has been looked after.
Box (Box Calf)
The historic leather of the house, a smooth calfskin with a slight sheen. It is the most noble and the most demanding: it marks, it scratches, it fears water — and as it ages it develops the patina collectors prize above all else.
An old Box with a beautiful patina can be worth more than a new one. It is one of the rare leathers where use adds value rather than taking it away.
Exotic leathers
Alligator, crocodile, lizard, ostrich. These fall under strict international regulation: the CITES convention governs their trade, and crossing certain borders requires specific documentation.
This is an essential practical point: an exotic bag bought in Europe cannot be shipped freely everywhere. We systematically verify the paperwork before any sale, and we tell you about any constraints before you buy.
Which leather should you choose?
| Your priority | The leather |
|---|---|
| Daily use, no special care | Togo or Epsom |
| Perfect structure, lightness | Epsom |
| Soft, relaxed look | Clémence |
| Depth of colour | Swift |
| Patina and collectability | Box |
On our listings
The leather of every piece is stated on its page, with its real condition and close-up photographs — including any flaws. We never retouch an image to make a leather look younger than it is.
See our Hermès pieces — rare, and rarely available for long.